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Thread: Bosch LSU4.2, NTK UEGO & WBO2 Extension Harness

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    Default Bosch LSU4.2, NTK UEGO & WBO2 Extension Harness

    Bosch LSU4.2 WBO2 Sensor
    Holley replacement WBO2 sensor. #554-101
    The actual wire (cable) length is 25", not including connector or sensor body.


    NTK L2H2 WBO2 Sensor
    Holley replacement WBO2 sensor. #554-100
    The NTK WBO2 sensor is slightly more accurate, withstands higher
    exhaust heat (forced induction) and is compatible with methanol/race fuels.

    The actual wire (cable) length is 25", not including connector or sensor body.
    FYI: The NTK WBO2 sensor is now the same length as the Bosch WBO2 sensor.


    Holley WBO2 sensor 4' long extension harness
    For Holley's Bosch LSU4.2 and NTK L2H2 wideband sensors. #534-199







    • If a miswired wideband O2 sensor harness connector is suspected, verify it with the pin-out below.
    Seven wire Bosch WBO2 sensor connector:
    A...gray
    B...white
    C...brown - Calibration resistor in a shell, 2" down from connector. (Early Bosch sensors didn't have these two brown wires.)
    D...brown - Calibration resistor in a shell, 2" down from connector. (Early Bosch sensors didn't have these two brown wires.)
    E...yellow
    F...red
    G...black
    H...(not used)

    Seven wire NTK WBO2 sensor connector:
    A...blue
    B...yellow
    C...brown - Calibration resistor in a shell, 2" down. (Early NTK sensors had a shorter harness without these two brown wires.)
    D...brown - Calibration resistor in a shell, 2" down. (Early NTK sensors had a shorter harness without these two brown wires.)
    E...black
    F...white
    G...gray
    H...(not used)

    Eight WBO2 sensor wires from ECU, at sensor connector (Bosch & NTK):
    A...A34...orange
    B...A9....yellow
    C...A16...brown
    D...A7....tan
    E...A17...black
    F...A33...white
    G...A25...red
    H...A8....shield

    Eight WBO2 sensor wires at the ECU P1A connector
    (Bosch & NTK):
    WB1 HTR +......A34...orange
    WB1 HTR -......A9....yellow
    WB1 COMPR1...A16...brown
    WB1 COMPR2...A7....tan
    WB1 VS-/IP-...A17...black
    WB1 IP+.........A33...white
    WB1 VS+........A25...red
    WB1 SHIELD....A8....shield
    (Optional 2nd WBO2 sensor wires are pinned the same, at Dominator ECU P2A & at sensor connector.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Holley Tech Dept.
    Pin Location E should be the ground, and location H should be the shielded wire. Double check the wiring. Do NOT go by wire color. Ohm out the pin locations on each end. ECU side has always been correct. The ground/shield was swapped on the WBO2 connector on an unknown amount of harnesses. This issue popped up around June/July of last year.
    Wideband O2 Sensor Notes:
    • If configuring a new Global Folder or changing to a different wideband O2 sensor type (Bosch/NTK), be sure to leave the WBO2 sensor(s) disconnected, until you've programmed the correct "Wideband O2 Sensor Type" in the EFI software - Engine Parameters (in System Parameters). According to the warning label on new WBO2 sensors, if the ECU is powered on with the wrong WBO2 sensor selected, damage will occur. Aside from correct software programming, ensure there are no ignition misfires or exhaust leaks upstream of the WBO2 sensor(s).

    • Large race camshafts will cause the WBO2 sensor(s) to read a false lean condition at idle & low RPM, due to their significant amount of overlap. This also happens if there isn't a sufficient length of exhaust piping beyond the WBO2 sensor(s), due to the WBO2 sensor being near an open exhaust pipe (ambient air contamination). To rectify this, enter the Closed Loop Parameters (in System Parameters), and set the "Enable RPM to Enter Closed Loop" high enough to ignore this condition. You'll then need to manually tune the idle area in Open Loop mode.

    • The Advanced Control (1-5) sets how fast the Closed Loop control operates. 1 is the slowest and 5 is the fastest. (The Avenger & Terminator hand-held controller calls this the "Closed Loop Speed".) This depends heavily on where the WBO2 sensor is located in the exhaust system. The further away the WBO2 sensor is (away from the engine), the lower the number should be. If Advanced Control 4 or 5 is selected, one must ensure the ECU isn't oscillating the Closed Loop operation. Viewing a datalog is helpful. I experienced a condition where the actual AFR often "lagged" momentarily, behind the Target AFR. I fixed it by changing the Closed Loop Advanced Control to 5. My WBO2 sensors are located in full-length header collectors.

    • If you suspect a failed WBO2 sensor, and your Fuel Table is well tuned, you can disable Closed Loop (in System Parameters), and the engine should run fine until a replacement WBO2 sensor arrives. You can do this to determine if the WBO2 sensor is at fault (at least at idle), because in Open Loop mode, the ECU ignores the WBO2 sensor. So if the engine starts running good in Open Loop mode, you've found the problem. Just ensure that you don't disable Closed Loop mode while the Learn Table is corrupted from a failed WBO2 sensor. Clear the Learn Table (if the percentages are erroneous from their nominal values), or load the last "known to be good" Global Folder. Also, if the ECU detects a WBO2 failure, it will go into Open Loop mode.

    • If you experience a failed WBO2 sensor on a fairly new EFI installation (low miles), ensure the current WBO2 sensor location isn't causing damage by exhaust condensation thermally shocking the sensor at startup and/or during the warmup period. If you suspect it is, install a sensor bung at a better location, use a taller O2 sensor bung or use an Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 to move the sensor probe out of the direct exhaust stream. I've been successfully using HBX-1 Heat-Sink Bung Extenders for many years.

    This is referring to the "wet" gases flowing through the exhaust system while the engine is cold. On most vehicles, you can literally see water spitting out of the tailpipe(s). It's imperative to prevent this water from contacting the WBO2 sensor, because it will thermally shock the heated sensor. OEM engineers go to great lengths to locate the WBO2 at its optimum location. Anyway, a poor sensor location can actually blow water directly at the sensor probe. Look at the routing direction (angle) of the exhaust pipe just ahead of the sensor. Does it "direct" the water right at the sensor or away from it?

    • Diagnose the following:
    All sensor values correct on Data Monitor?
    Failed WBO2 sensor corrupted Learn Table (unusual %)?
    Exhaust leaks upstream of the O2 sensor?
    Ignition misfire? (O2 sensor will read lean.)
    Battery/charging system functioning properly?
    Consistent fuel pressure? (Disconnect vacuum hose to measure static psi.)
    Inspect wire harness/connectors for damage and ensure it's not near any high voltage components.

    * Ensure you're using the latest EFI software & ECU firmware (Link); it has "Oxygen Sensor Control Updates" (Link - HEFI_0587.eep).

    https://www.holley.com/document/tech...__statuses.pdf
    (Sensor Diagnostics & Statuses)
    https://www.holley.com/document/tech...10555rev15.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual & Diagrams)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ist-Holley-EFI (Troubleshooting Checklist - Holley EFI)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3R8whD3ZWg (Interesting wideband O2 sensor diagnosis - it works!)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onbjzEOZtMs (Another wideband O2 sensor test - same test procedure.)

    HolleyECUs_zpsbd8866f7.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Klaus Allmendinger, VP of Engineering, Innovate Motorsports
    Differences between Bosch LSU4/4.2 and NTK UEGO
    1) Response speed:
    Measured by the sensors own response delay between pump cell and sense cell-
    Bosch ~5 msec
    NTK ~50 msec
    I'm referring to the internal delay of the sensor between a change of pump current to change of measurement cell output for a constant AFR gas, not the delay between gas change and measurement cell output. The delay I stated is the impulse response of the control input (pump current) to measurement output.
    2) Back Pressure sensitivity:
    Bosch sensor has about 1/3 the NTK's pressure sensitivity.
    Pressure sensitivity means that the sensor reads richer than reality in a rich mixture, leaner in lean mixture.
    3) Temperature sensitivity:
    NTK sensor is fairly insensitive to temperature either at bung or EGT, can run with constant heater voltage.
    Bosch sensors are very sensitive and needs to have precisely controlled cell temperatures. Bosch sensors are sensitive to housing temperature.
    4) Heating time:
    NTK ~60 seconds
    Bosch ~20 seconds
    Warmup times are greatly influenced by additional heating by exhaust gas and can be shorter than what I stated. The numbers I posted are warmup times for the sensor in 20C (68F) still gas, sensor at 20C (68F), heating to full operating temp (useful measurements). Warmup cycle controlled to max warmup ramp as per respective manufacturer specs. In an actual engine situation (additional heating by exhaust gas) the Bosch can warm up in as low as 10 sec while still staying within the warmup ramp specs. The NTK can warmup in 33 secs or less. But these numbers are very much dependent on the engine situation (rpm, EGT) and therefore hard to compare and control.
    5) Thermal shock:
    There's no difference. The Bosch sensor is actually shrouded heavier than the NTK, which protects it a little better. The only difference I have seen is that the NTK often does not fail as dramatically and obviously as the Bosch, but can give you readings that are 1-3 AFR off.
    This generally true from my experience with the NTK. It fails just as often and for the same reasons as the Bosch unit, but the failures are less noticeable. But it IS a lot slower due to its construction and can handle more mechanical abuse (banging it around).

    Differences between Bosch LSU4 (066) and LSU4.2 (057/058)
    1) Heater response time:
    066 sensor has higher thermal mass and responds slower to heat input. This makes the 057/058 sensor a little bit more challenging to control, heater PID must react faster.
    No problem in the LM-1, because it's already designed for the faster response of the 057.
    2) Sensor tolerances:
    066 sensors have tighter tolerances between sensors. This is not an issue with the LM-1 because it is calibrates to the individual sensor when doing a free air calibration.
    3) 066 sensor is slightly more tolerant to overheating of the sensor housing at the bung. It takes longer to give completely erroneous values, but has the same specs.
    4) 066 sensor is more expensive.
    5) Connector is different.

    Heat & Back Pressure Aspects:
    It's all really simple. A narrowband sensor does not care about heat or back-pressure very much. It just needs to be at it's minimum temp (~300C/572F) to operate. It switches at 14.7 AFR between a low voltage (lean) and high voltage (rich). That's all it does. If people post that they have different readings on an NB sensor before and after turbo, it's because they use the NB sensor for what it can't do, namely measure AFR outside it's 14.7 +- ~0.3 AFR range. It's output voltage on the rich side just varies mainly with EGT (and just a little with AFR), that's all.
    A wideband sensor IS sensitive to back pressure. Some more, some less. With back pressure a WB reads richer than reality on the rich side of stoichiometric, leaner than reality on the lean side. The NTK sensor is actually much more sensitive in that respect than the Bosch. The NTK sensor on the other hand is less sensitive to heat, and could theoretically take the pre-turbo heat. But the ECU needs to compensate for the wrong reading due to back pressure. OEMs do that by finding the appropriate compensation factors based on engine state.
    The gist of it is that you can mount a narrowband sensor before the turbo, because it can take the heat and is ignored at WOT anyway. But even a heated NBO2 does not have a heater strong enough without help from EGTs to keep at it's operating temp in all conditions.
    Mount a WB sensor downstream, for accurate measurement and sensor life. In the location designed for a NBO2 you will typically be asking for trouble.

    Regarding Bosch LSU4.2 Location:
    The Bosch LSU4.2 sensor has a specified housing temperature (at the bung) of max 560C (1040F). Exceeding this can cause problems because the heater in the sensor can no longer be precisely controlled. It does not destroy the sensor (typically), but AFR readings will be inaccurate because of uncontrolled sensor temperatures.
    On many turbo cars the bung temperatures are higher than that. Same can happen with superchargers, wrapped/coated headers and pipes.
    Narrowband O2 sensors are not very sensitive to heat, because they only need to work as a switch, not as a measurement device.
    In many cases the bung temperatures of a NBO2 sensor location are much higher than the Bosch sensor can tolerate.
    We (Innovate) found that although the sensor head can handle up to 1560F EGT, bung temperatures are typically the bigger problem. That's why we recommend a heat sink for high bung temp applications.
    The sensor head is temperature controlled. If heated to or above its operating temperature it can no longer be controlled (the sensor heater cannot cool). In that case in an OEM application for the sensor (closed loop WB control) the ECU goes open loop. A WB meter cannot go open loop (unfortunately) and either becomes inaccurate or shows an error (the LM-1 shows an error).
    • As for warmup of the sensor:
    This is key to the lifespan of the sensor. The LM-1 uses a controlled heat-up profile at the max. allowable heat-up rate that Bosch specifies for the sensor. Heat-up time in room temperature air is about 20 sec.

    Sensors get destroyed for four reasons:
    1) Carbon fouling
    Happens when the sensor is left unpowered during engine warmup or running continuously at excessively rich mixtures (<10 AFR).
    2) Lead fouling
    Lead will at any temperature over time coat the pump cell ceramics and prevent it from working.
    3) Penetrants
    Things like WD-40, even traces of it, will destroy the sensor instantly because of a chemical reaction between the penetrant and the sensor ceramics.
    The sensors get their reference air through the cable sheath. Penetrants can work their way through the cable into the sensor. After all, that's what penetrants are for.
    4) Running the sensor outside specified temperatures.
    This does not destroy the sensor instantly, but reduces its lifespan significantly.
    Regards, Klaus
    May God's Grace Bless You

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, custom traction bars, 4" lift, 35" mud tires

  2. #2

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    What's the pin-out of the 554-100 NTK WB02 sensor? It seems to be different from the Bosch?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by theblackone View Post
    What's the pin-out of the 554-100 NTK WB02 sensor? It seems to be different from the Bosch?
    Yes, just the WBO2 sensor wiring is different.
    I updated the WBO2 sensor pin-out information.
    May God's Grace Bless You

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, custom traction bars, 4" lift, 35" mud tires

  4. #4

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    Good info in this thread! Thanks for sharing.

    Is there a way to test the sensor's accuracy?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1DirtyZ View Post
    Is there a way to test the sensor's accuracy?
    Accuracy - not without laboratory test equipment.
    May God's Grace Bless You

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, custom traction bars, 4" lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #6

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    Could you test WBO2 sensor by using the AFR display from the HP EFI software?
    The same as the YouTube procedure? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3R8whD3ZWg
    Read AFR with sensor out of exhaust and then read AFR with fuel dampened rag?

    Also, I'm not sure of what some of the abbreviations mean for the plug connections.
    Last edited by offthefront; 06-24-2013 at 04:05 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by offthefront View Post
    Could you test WBO2 sensor by using the AFR display from the HP EFI software?
    Yes, however, you'll need to wait until the sensor heats to operating temperature.
    Also, the sensor heater will time out, so you'll need to work fast. Don't burn yourself.

    Also, I am not sure of what some of the abbreviations mean for the plug connections:
    "HTR+ & -" ....= sensor's heater
    "COMPR1 & 2" = calibration resistor
    "VS-/IP-" ......= common ground
    "IP+" ............= current source to sensor
    "VS+" ...........= voltage input from sensor

    "HTR" ....= heater
    "COMPR" = compensating resistance
    "IP" .......= pumping current
    "VS" ......= voltage source
    "SHIELD" = drain wire
    May God's Grace Bless You

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, custom traction bars, 4" lift, 35" mud tires

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    Danny, can you explain the process of disassembling the pins from the connectors? I need a WB02 extension harness but would like to pass the main harness through a small hole and reassemble on the other side and extend from there. Thanks, Rick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick90lx View Post
    Danny, can you explain the process of disassembling the pins from the connectors?
    There's some information about it here, under "Notes":
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....als-Holley-EFI (Connectors & Terminals)
    May God's Grace Bless You

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, Lentech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, custom traction bars, 4" lift, 35" mud tires

  10. #10

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    When wiring a Dominator system, which WB02 sensor gets plugged into the main harness? Is it the passenger or drivers side? Thanks.
    SICKFOX

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